They were breakfasting on the nectar of gorgeous tropical blossoms; we were breakfasting on Gallo Pinto(beans and rice) with scrambled eggs, , then papayas, melon and guavas. We were all enjoying an early morning in paradise in the Solentiname Islands of Lake Nicaragua.
We had arrived on the island by boat or rather a series of boats. An open motor boat from Cano Negro through the rich ,verdant forests of Costa Rica on the Rio Frio where we had seen, and emphatically heard, howler monkeys in the treetops, watched a dopey sloth and her baby, admired little caymen and large crocodiles, turtles and toucans, lizards and kingfishers. We counted 70 species of birds thanks to our excellent naturalist guide, as well as morpho and heleconios butterflies and 6” long dragonflies. Not only is travel by open boat about as close as you can get to nature, but much more comfortable as the roads are pretty terrible.
We changed boats near the border in Los Chiles to head to San Carlos, the “big” town of southern lake Nicaragua. The town looked dusty and struggling and we were glad to climb board our final “panga” out in to Lake Nicaragua which looked big as an ocean and sometimes has weather to match.
The Solentiname Islands are undeveloped in the tourist sense and charmingly simple. Our guest house had an electric generator which worked for a couple of hours in the evening but our congenial group of friends and two guides preferred candle light and the cook made her tasty offerings on an open fire. We spent our evenings updating bird lists with our local guide, soaking up the glorious sunsets as well as the local beer and rum while listening to the tropical sounds playing all around us.
About half the days of our 11 day trip were spent canoeing on the Rio Frio, the Sarapaqui River and the great San Juan River which divides Costa Rica from Nicaragua. Most of the water was calm or flat as we sports (!) like to call it, but there were some challenges and lessons to be learned on the Sarapaqui near the end of the trip before our return to San Jose.
Advertised as a trip for “the adventurous” it certainly was that. From the visit of bats and spiders to the bedroom (they and we escaped unharmed) to the slithering jungle paths on the look out for dart frogs and poisonous snakes (we did see one fer de lance) , soaking wet from tropical rains, wearing big rubber boots through the red, gummy quagmire, it was not for the beach potato. We found a hog-nosed viper on our path, took care not to puts hands in the path of bullet ants and giddily marched over high suspension bridges looking and not looking down at the roaring waters below.
Highlights of the trip? Definitely wildlife and rivers, Also the town of El Castillo on the San Juan River named for the Spanish built fort which dominates the town. The long river frontage street was like a stage set from Show Boat with the boat traffic the only act in town. Also impressive here were the river shrimp, huge sausage sized morsels cooked perfectly by Abner’s wife in their upstairs restaurant over looking the river, of course.
Another relation was a new look at the war in Nicaragua, so recently fought and already part of history. Early Sandanista struggles began and early blood was shed in the Solentiname Islands. These same islands now produce their own primitive art, balsa birds and tropical animals and bright 2 dimensional paintings which can be purchased in dollars from the kitchen tables of almost all the modest dwellings there.
Keep tuned for more Pussycat Adventures!
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